While flipping through a copy of Cook’s Illustrated (the magazine from America’s Test Kitchen), I found an article on posset. Now this may sound like a small mammal, but posset is actually an old-time English dessert that most Americans have never encountered. Until fairly recently, even most English cooks would likely have associated the name with a tart, creamy drink dating back to the Middle Ages.

Cook’s Illustrated said this: “Today’s posset, which has been taken up by English celebrity chefs and cookbook writers and is starting to appear on American restaurant menus, is a chilled dessert with the marvelously plush texture of a mousse or pudding that comes together almost by magic from nothing more than sugar, cream, and citrus juice. There are no temperamental egg yolks or add-ins like gelatin, flour, or cornstarch needed to help the mixture thicken and set—or to interfere with the clean, bright taste of citrus.”

According to the article, the Test Kitchen chefs spent considerable time with this dish. They gave several recipes a whirl, choosing to focus on classic lemon versions (lime, orange, grapefruit, and combinations thereof are also common).

The techniques they used rarely varied: Heat cream with sugar until the sugar dissolves, add lemon juice, and chill as you wait for the mixture to gel to a velvety texture. As for the results, every single one appealed to the folks lucky enough to get to test the results. They all loved these buttery-smooth desserts.

But being the Test Kitchen, after all, they did find room for improvement. Some possets were a bit too thin and almost runny, while others turned out firm but overly sweet, lacking enough citrusy tang to cut the cream’s richness. And one thing all the chefs wondered was if they could make the lemon flavor a bit more complex.

The overall goal was to transform these three ingredients into a silky, creamy dessert (think crème brûlée minus the crunchy top) with enough bright-tart flavor to balance the richness of the cream.

They found that proportions were crucial. Using just the right proportions of sugar and lemon juice was the key to custard with a smooth, luxurious consistency and a bright enough flavor to balance the richness of the cream. Lemon zest was essential to making the lemon flavor even more prominent.

And for a posset with an optimally dense, firm set, they went through the process of reducing the cream-sugar mixture to 2 cups to evaporate some of the water before adding the lemon juice, which in turn caused the mixture to solidify. I’ve made a lot of pudding/mousse desserts in my time, and I never would have thought of going the reduction route. Glad they shared this tip!

They also found that letting the warm mixture rest for 20 minutes before straining and portioning allowed the flavors to meld even more and ensured a silky-smooth consistency.

Finally, the Test Kitchen chefs paired the dessert with fresh berries for textural contrast, which also helped keep it from feeling overly rich.

It all sounds like a lot of work, doesn’t it? But the end product is truly worth the effort. While this might not be a weekly dessert, it certainly does deserve consideration for a special occasion. Here’s the Test Kitchen recipe; see what you think:

LEMON POSSET WITH BERRIES (serves 6)

2 cups heavy cream

⅔ cup sugar

1 tablespoon grated lemon zest plus 6 tablespoons juice (2 lemons)

1½ cups fresh blueberries or raspberries (optional)

1. Combine cream, sugar, and lemon zest in medium saucepan and bring to boil over medium heat. Continue to boil, stirring frequently to dissolve sugar. If mixture begins to boil over, briefly remove from heat. Cook until mixture is reduced to 2 cups, 8 to 12 minutes.

2. Off heat, stir in lemon juice. Let sit until mixture is cooled slightly and skin forms on top, about 20 minutes. Strain through fine-mesh strainer into bowl; discard zest. Divide mixture evenly among 6 individual ramekins or serving glasses.

3. Refrigerate, uncovered, until set, at least 3 hours. Once chilled, possets can be wrapped in plastic wrap and refrigerated for up to 2 days. Unwrap and let sit at room temperature for 10 minutes before serving. Garnish possets with berries and serve.

TIPS/TECHNIQUES:

This dessert requires portioning into individual servings. Reducing the cream mixture to exactly 2 cups creates the best consistency. Transfer the liquid to a 2-cup heatproof liquid measuring cup once or twice during boiling to monitor the amount. Do not leave the cream unattended, as it can boil over easily.

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