Do you use nutmeg often? This spice has an amazing history and amazing versatility. (See DVO blog, Happy Cook'n) But to enjoy it to its fullest potential, there are a few things we should know about it:

Once fresh whole nutmeg is ground, it soon loses the oils which provide its flavor and taste, so grating fresh nutmeg is recommended to achieve the full benefit of the fresh oils. A nutmeg grater should be a part of basic equipment in every kitchen, but if you do not have one, use the finest blade on a larger hand-held manual grater. The difference between fresh nutmeg and commercially-ground is like night and day.

Testing for good quality fresh nutmegs is as easy as inserting a darning needle a centimeter into the meat; if a tiny drop of oil seeps out, the nut is good. Freshly-grated nutmeg should ideally be added at the end of the cooking process, since heat diminishes the flavor.

Whole fresh nutmegs, as well as ground nutmeg and mace, should be kept in a tightly-sealed jar or container in a cool, dark place. This means storing it (along with all the other herbs and spices), in the small cupboard over the stove isn’t the best idea. And be sure to wrap leftover fresh nutmeg tightly so the oils are not lost.

Slightly sweeter than mace, nutmeg is essential to bechamel sauce and also goes well with baked or stewed fruit, custards, eggnog, punches, curries, sauces (particularly onion-based and milk sauces), pasta, and vegetables (especially spinach).

One whole nutmeg grated yields 2 to 3 teaspoons of ground nutmeg. Mace may be substituted for nutmeg in a pinch and vice versa, but obviously the flavor of the end result will be affected as with any substitution. Now let’s look at some fun things nutmeg can do in recipes. Here’s a recipe you’ll never believe would be delicious. All I can say is, try it and see:

Asparagus Drop Cookies
(Courtesy of Asparagus: All Ways...Always by Stockton Asparagus Festival Cookbook, Celestial Arts)

1 cup grated asparagus
1 teaspoon soda
1 cup sugar
1 cup butter or margarine
1 egg, beaten
2 cups flour
1 teaspoon cinnamon
1/2 teaspoon cloves
1/2 teaspoon nutmeg
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 cup chopped nuts
1 cup raisins (optional)

Beat together thoroughly the asparagus, baking soda, sugar, and shortening. Add egg. Beat well.
Sift flour, cinnamon, cloves, nutmeg, and salt. Add dry ingredients to wet ingredients, mix well. Add nuts and raisins. Drop by teaspoonful on greased baking sheet. Bake at 375 degrees F. for 12 to 15 minutes.

Yield: 3 dozen cookies