The Muffuletta is a sandwich that can barely contain its own ego. It hails from New Orleans, as if that city needed another reason to brag about its food scene. Picture this: a giant round loaf of Sicilian sesame bread stuffed with so much cured meat that it scared a local group of pigs into starting an emotional support group—salami, mortadella and ham are all piled high with slices of provolone layered in.

But the real kicker? The olive salad. It's like a jar of giardiniera exploded inside the bread—olives, pickled vegetables, garlic, capers, and whatever else they could think of to make you regret not owning a bib.

One of my favorite parts of this sandwich is the mouthfeel. After assembling, you’re supposed to compress the sandwich to give it a firmer bite and let the flavors meld. Sandwich artists often wrap the sandwich tightly in plastic wrap and let it sit overnight before serving. It makes it really feel like you’re holding a little brick of delicious deli.

If you’re a fan of cured meats, the muffuletta is one of the greatest meals you’ll ever have. It’s just a shame that it’s not more widely known.

History of the Muffuletta

The muffuletta was invented by a Sicilian immigrant named Salvatore Lupo in 1906. He owned a grocery store called Central Grocery in the French Quarter of New Orleans. The story goes that Lupo noticed his customers—mostly Sicilian farmers—struggling to eat a traditional Sicilian lunch of bread, meats, cheese, and olives. They would awkwardly balance all these ingredients on their laps, turning lunch into a bit of a juggling act.

Lupo, being a practical guy, decided to simplify things by stuffing all the ingredients into a single loaf of bread. Voilà, the muffuletta was born—easy to carry, easier to eat, and full of the familiar flavors of home.

The muffuletta exploded in New Orleans because of the city’s large population of Sicilian immigrants. By the late 19th and early 20th centuries, New Orleans had one of the largest Italian communities in the U.S., particularly from Sicily. The city’s unique food culture, which was already a melting pot of French, Spanish, African, and Creole influences, made it the perfect place for the muffuletta to thrive.

Popularity and Spread

The sandwich initially became popular locally because, well, it was delicious and convenient. As tourists began flocking to New Orleans, they discovered this local treasure and started spreading the word. By the mid-20th century, the muffuletta had earned its spot in the pantheon of iconic New Orleans foods, alongside gumbo, jambalaya, and beignets.

The muffuletta’s popularity was also helped by the food industry's growing interest in regional specialties. As more people became aware of and interested in trying authentic local foods, the muffuletta began to appear on menus outside of New Orleans, especially in cities with their own Italian communities.

The muffuletta is a culinary love letter from Sicilian immigrants to their new home, wrapped up in bread and dripping with olive oil.

I love cured meats and dense sandwiches, so I’m shocked the muffuletta isn’t more popular. Despite its robust flavors and iconic status in New Orleans, it hasn’t reached the same level of nationwide ubiquity as sandwiches like the club, Reuben, or French dip. Let’s break down why that might be.

Modern Impact

The muffuletta remains a beloved regional specialty. In New Orleans, it’s a staple. Central Grocery is still the go-to spot for the classic muffuletta, and many other New Orleans eateries serve their own variations. But outside of Louisiana, the muffuletta is more of a niche offering. You might find it in some Italian delis, specialty sandwich shops, or restaurants that pride themselves on regional American cuisine, but it’s far from a regular on a typical diner menu.

Why isn’t it more common elsewhere? Well, there are two main reasons:

Size and Complexity: The muffuletta is a hefty sandwich. The round loaf of bread used in an authentic muffuletta can be daunting, especially since it’s often served in large portions. It’s not the easiest sandwich to eat or prepare compared to a Reuben or club sandwich, which are more standardized and straightforward.

Ingredients: The muffuletta’s specific ingredients—like the olive salad—aren’t as universally accessible or appealing. The strong flavors of cured meats paired with a tangy, briny olive salad are more polarizing than the flavors of, say, a turkey club. Not everyone’s a fan of olives or the robust mix of pickled vegetables, making it less likely to become a mainstream favorite.

So how do you make your own muffuletta?

As much as we all want a good muffuletta, it’s not as accessible as a hot pastrami or a ham and cheese. While you could make bread from ham and fly in some mortadella straight from New Orleans, it might be a better idea to make some substitutions.

Bread Substitutions

The traditional muffuletta bread is a round, sesame-seed-covered loaf that’s soft but sturdy enough to hold all the fillings. If you can’t find it, here are some alternatives:

1. Italian Bread: A large round Italian loaf or boule can work well. It’s similar in texture and can usually hold up to the fillings. This is the first substitution I’d recommend, especially if you haven’t had the muffuletta before.

2. Focaccia: If you want something with a bit more flavor, focaccia can be a good substitute. It’s thicker and has a nice olive oil richness, though you might miss the sesame seeds.

3. Ciabatta: This is more widely available and has a good chewiness to it. It’s not round, but you can cut it lengthwise and make a more rectangular muffuletta.

4. French Bread or Baguette: If all else fails, you can use a large French bread loaf. The crust will be a bit crisper, but it’ll still taste great.

Mortadella Substitutions

Mortadella might be a little tricky to find, but there are some decent substitutes:

1. Bologna: Mortadella is the fancy Italian cousin of bologna. While it doesn’t have the same rich flavor or fat marbling, it’s a passable substitute in a pinch. Try to find a good quality bologna, preferably from a deli.

2. Ham and Salami Combo: If you can’t find mortadella, doubling up on ham and salami (two other ingredients already found in the muffuletta) can help balance out the sandwich. You could also look for a spicier salami like soppressata to add some depth.

3. Capicola or Prosciutto: These Italian cold cuts can be good stand-ins. Capicola adds a peppery kick, while prosciutto gives you that rich, cured flavor.

Olive Salad

You can make your own olive salad, and it’s surprisingly easy. In fact, I would say just start with making this salad before making the sandwich, and experiment with eating it as a side or serving it with different meals. Who knows, if you like olives it might become a staple of your pantry.

Ingredients:

- Green and black olives (pitted)

- Pickled vegetables (like giardiniera)

- Garlic

- Capers

- Celery

- Red wine vinegar

- Olive oil

- Fresh parsley

- Oregano

- Red pepper flakes (optional)

Instructions:

- Chop the olives, pickled vegetables, garlic, capers, and celery into small pieces.

- Mix them with olive oil, red wine vinegar, and seasonings.

- Let it marinate for at least a few hours (or overnight) to develop the flavors.

How to Assemble the Muffuletta

Once you’ve got your bread and meats, here’s how to put it all together:

1. Cut the Bread: Slice your loaf in half horizontally.

2. Layer the Meats and Cheese: Start with a layer of ham, then your mortadella, salami, and provolone cheese. Usually I see one big layer of ham, then mortadella, then salami, then cheese—people don’t generally shuffle these all together like a deck of cards.

3. Add the Olive Salad: Spoon a generous amount of olive salad on top of the cheese.

4. Close and Press: Close the sandwich and press it down. You can wrap it tightly in plastic wrap and let it sit for an hour or two to let the flavors meld together.

5. Slice and Serve: When ready to serve, cut the sandwich into wedges. This sandwich is typically served at room temperature.