Serves: 5

lard:
Soft white fat of pork. Commonly used as a cooking medium. Gives clear color and rich flavor to stir-fried dishes, particularly vegetables. Also used for pastries. Is never used with cold dishes (it congeals) or for deep-fried foods (it makes them soft, not crisp). Pure leaf lard is favored. Sold by weight. (See HOW-TO, _Lard, Leaf: To render.) Note: Ingredients cooked in lard don't lend themselves to reheating. They taste best when freshly cooked.

lettuce, Chinese
(celery, Napa or Tientsin cabbage):
Crisp, tightly packed vegetable, about 10 to 12 inches long. Has firm, vertical, yellow-white leaves, tinged at the top with pale green. Can be eaten raw in salads Western-style, but is delicious stir-fried with beef or pork or quick-cooked in soups. Has a distinctive but not strong taste, somewhere between lettuce and cabbage. Sold fresh by weight. Sometimes available in neighborhood fruit stores and supermarkets. (See SUPPLEMENTARY INFORMATION, 22- Storing Information 21- Substitutions.)

lichee fruit:
Small, delicate and juicy, oval-shaped fruit. Its skin is rough-textured, shell-like and strawberry red its pulp milky-white and translucent. The seed is smooth, hard and brown. The canned variety (peeled, pitted and preserved in light syrup) is used as a sweet dish, also with chicken, duck, and sweet-andpungent pork. The fresh variety, available only in July, is very expensive. (See SUPPLEMENTARY INFORMATION, 22- Storing Information.)

lichee nuts:
Dried lichees with paper-thin brownish-red shells, firm dark prune-like flesh. Have smoky, sweetish taste. Are eaten like nuts or candy. Sold by weight and in boxes.

lily buds
(golden needles, lily flowers, or tiger lilies):
Dried, elongated lily buds about 2 to 3 inches long. Pale gold in color (the paler the better), fragile and lightweight. Have delicate, musky taste, high nutritive value. Used as a vegetable or flavoring with fish, pork, poultry (often in combination with cloud ears and other dried ingredients). Can be either stir-fried or slow-cooked. Must be soaked. Sold by weight. (See SUPPLEMENTARY INFORMATION, 23- Soaking Information.) Note: Some have hard stems which should be removed after soaking. If very long, lily buds should be cut crosswise in two.

long beans:
Light, green summer vegetable, resembling attenuated string beans. Used in stir-fried dishes, either diced or cut in 2-inch lengths. Lose their fresh taste and become mushy if overcooked. Sold fresh in bunches by weight. (See SUPPLEMENTARY INFORMATION, 21- Substitutions.)

long rice: See noodles, rice-flour.

longans: See dragon's eyes.

loquats:
Small yellow fruit, similar in size and texture to the apricot. Subtle, delicate, juicy. Used as a sweet dish. Can also be cooked with chicken. A vaila ble in cans. (See SUPPLEMENTARY INFORMATION, 22- Storing Information.)

lotus leaves:
Leaves of the water-lily plant, used both fresh and dried. The fresh impart flavor and fragrance to foods. The dried serve as wrappings for rice, meat and sweet mixtures which are then steamed.

lotus root
(water-lily root):
Reddish-brown tuberous stem of the water lily. Measures roughly 2 inches in diameter, about 8 inches in length per section. (Looks like several sweet potatoes linked together.) Similar in texture to the potato but better-tasting and less woody. Used as a vegetable. Can be stir-fried to retain its crunchiness, or slow-simmered in soups and stews. It can also be prepared as a sweet dish: stuffed with glutinous rice and steamed. Must be peeled. (To prevent discoloration, soak in water with a small amount of vinegar added.) Sold fresh by weight from July through February. Also available canned and dried. (See SUPPLEMENTARY INFORMATION, 22- Storing Information 23- Soaking Information.)

lotus seeds:
Small, delicately flavored water-lily seeds, 1/2 inch long and oval in shape. When young and juicy, are eaten raw as fruit, or boiled with sugar. When ripe, have dark brown husks resembling those of filberts are then dry and nut-like and are used in duck and winter melon soups. Are also candied and sweetened as pastry fillings. Must be blanched. Sold by weight or already blanched, in cans. (See SUPPLEMENTARY INFORMATION, 21- Substitutions, and HOW-TO, _Lotus Seeds: To blanch.)
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mandarin orange peel: See tangerine peel.

matrimony vine:
A thorny vine with dark green leaves about 1 inch long. Used as a flavoring to add a cool, slightly bitter taste to soup. Sold fresh by weight.

melon seeds:
Dried watermelon seeds, eaten like nuts or used in sweet dishes and pastries. Come in 2 varieties: black and red. (Red is more expensive.) Sold by weight.

Ming Dynasty eggs: See eggs, preserved.

mixed Chinese pickles: See ginger, subgum.

monosodium glutamate
(flavoring powder, or seasoning powder):
White crystalline extract of grains and vegetables, said to enhance the natural flavor of certain foods. Considered a seasoning, not a chemical additive. (Does not replace salt or other seasonings.) Has no significant flavor of its own. Used in fairly large amounts by restaurants, food processors and food service institutions. There are two schools of thought on its value for home cooking: one that it heightens flavor, the other that it's not necessary when food is of good quality and well-prepared. Can be added to any dish except sweet dishes and eggs. Must be used sparingly so as not to mask food flavors (excessive use tends to give all dishes a mechanical sameness, a pseudo-taste). Sold in cans and jars under a variety of brand names. Note: If a recipe is doubled or tripled, the monosodium glutamate should not be increased correspondingly.

mung peas:
Tiny, hard, dried, smooth-textured green peas. Used in making peastarch noodles and in growing bean sprouts. Sold by weight. (See SUPPLEMENTARY INFORMATION, 22- Storing Information HOW-TO, _Bean Sprouts: To grow your own.)

mushrooms:
Basic, versatile ingredient used as vegetable and flavoring in soups and many dishes. All types-fresh, dried and canned-are used. (Fresh mushrooms can also be dried at home: See HOW-TO, _Mushrooms: To dry.)

mushrooms, black dried
(winter mushrooms):
Brownish-black mushrooms from the Orient, with caps about 1/2 to 2 inches in diameter. Meaty, succulent and savory. (The large thick ones with light skins, curled edges and highly cracked surfaces are best.) Can be stir-fried, stuffed, braised, steamed or simmered. Must be soaked. Should be used sparingly: 6 are the equivalent of a 6-ounce can of mushrooms. Sold by weight. Note: A second variety is flower-shaped, thicker, rarer and more expensive. It's used in banquet dishes. (See SUPPLEMENTARY INFORMATION, 22- Storing Information 23- Soaking Information 21- Substitutions.)

mushrooms, button:
Small, white, tender young mushrooms used in soups and delicate stir-fried dishes. Sometimes used fresh, more commonly canned, particularly the canned variety from France. (See SUPPLEMENTARY INFORMATION, 22- Storing Information.)

mushrooms, cloud ear
(brown fungus, tree fungus, or wood ears):
Small, dried, charred-looking fungus, about 1 inch long and irregularly shaped. Must be soaked. Expands to 5 or 6 times its original size, becomes brown and gelatinous. Resembles a convoluted flower or well-shaped ear. Can be stir-fried, braised or steamed. Used in pork, chicken, noodle, egg and vegetable dishes (often in combination with lily buds). Has a tender, delicate taste, somewhat crunchy texture. Sold by weight. Note: A second larger, thicker and tougher variety is used in quasi-medicinal soups. (See SUPPLEMENTARY INFORMATION, 22- Storing Information 23- Soaking Information.)

mushrooms, grass
(straw mushrooms):
Tall, thin leafy mushrooms, crisp in texture, fragrant and very tasty. Must be soaked. Used with steamed chicken. (See SUPPLEMENTARY INFORMATION, 23- Soaking Information.)

mushrooms, snow
(white fungus):
Dried cultivated fungus used in soups, in braised and vegetarian dishes. Considered high in tonic qualities. Must be soaked. Sold by weight. (See SUPPLEMENTARY INFORMATION, 23- Soaking Information.)

mustard:
Frequently used table condiment made by blending powdered English mustard and water to a paste. (See Seasonings and Sauces, Hot Mustard.) Very strong and hot. Should be used sparingly. Powdered mustard is available in cans by weight.

mustard greens: See cabbage, mustard.

mustard greens, Pickled: See cabbage, pickled.
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Napa cabbage: See lettuce, Chinese.

noodles, egg:
An alimentary paste made of flour and eggs. Can be boiled, braised or fried. Combines with pork, beef, poultry, soup and vegetables. Sold by weight both fresh and dried. (See SUPPLEMENTARY INFORMATION, 22- Storing Information.)

noodles, peastarch
(bean threads, cellophane noodles, powdered silk noodles, shining noodles, transparent noodles, or vermicelli):
Hard, opaque, fine white noodles made from ground mung peas. Must be soaked, then cooked briefly. (They absorb some of the liquid in which they're cooked and become translucent, gelatinous, slippery.) Have more texture than flavor, but readily absorb the flavor of other ingredients. Can be simmered in soups, stir-fried with beef, lobster, shrimp, pork and vegetables. Should be served at once when cooked otherwise they become shapeless and mushy. Sold in long bundles, packaged by weight. (See SUPPLEMENTARY INFORMATION, 23- Soaking Information 21- Substitutions.)

noodles, rice-flour
(long rice or rice sticks):
Noodles made from rice pounded into flour. Look like long white hairs. Are thin, brittle and opaque, about 5 inches long, and have a distinctive flavor. Combine well with fresh oysters, dried mussels, scallions, pork, cloud ears and lily buds. Can be parboiled, steamed, simmered and deep-fried. (When deep-fried briefly, they become puffy and crisp, and are used as a garnish.) Can also be stir-fried but must be soaked first. Sold by weight in bundles. Another variety, known as Rice Sticks, is about 1/4-inch wide. (See SUPPLEMENTARY INFORMATION, 23- Soaking Information HOW-TO, _Noodles, Rice-Flour: To prepare as a garnish.)

noodles, seaweed
(cellophane noodles or vermicelli):
Transparent, threadlike noodles made from seaweed. Are thinner, finer, more gelatinous than peastarch noodles. Must be soaked. Used mainly in cold dishes. Sold in boxes. (See SUPPLEMENTARY INFORMATION, 23- Soaking Information 21- Substitutions.)

noodles, wheat-flour:
An alimentary paste, whiter and smoother than egg noodles. Prepared in the same way, but cooked longer. Usually boiled first until nearly done, then added to stir-fried dishes and soups. Sold packaged by weight. (See SUPPLEMENTARY INFORMATION, 21- Substitutions.)
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oil, peanut:
Clear, golden liquid shortening made from peanuts. A commonly used cooking medium for both deep- and stir-frying. Imparts a distinctive, subtle flavor to foods, keeps them from sticking. Can be heated to high temperatures without burning. Can also be used again and again without clarification. Sold in bottles and cans. (See SUPPLEMENTARY INFORMATION, 22- Storing Information 21- Substitutions HOW-TO, _Oil, Peanut: To enhance.)

oil, sesame:
Amber-colored oil made from toasted white sesame seeds. Strong, nutlike, aromatic and fragrant. Generally used as a flavoring. Adds subtle taste to soup, poultry, shrimp, turnips, stuffings and cold dishes. (A few drops will improve any dish.) Should be used sparingly. Available in bottles. Expensive. Note: The paler sesame oil sold in many supermarkets is not this concentrated variety. The latter must be purchased in Oriental food stores.

okra, Chinese
(pleated squash):
Long, narrow, light-green summer vegetable, the size of a cucumber. Segmented lengthwise, with sharp, tough edges. Has a refreshing, slightly sweet taste. Used in stir-fried dishes, in quick-cooked soups. Sold fresh by weight. To use: Cut away hard stringy edges. Scrape skin. Cut in thin slices for stir-frying, in triangular chunks for soup.

olives, dried:
Purplish-black cured and dried olives, cut in half and pitted. Add pungency to steamed fish, meat and vegetarian dishes. Can be steamed, with oil, sugar and ginger and used as a snack. Must be soaked. Sold by weight. (See SUPPLEMENTARY INFORMATION, 23- Soaking Information.)

onions:
Most frequently-used is the scallion or green onion. The white root end is preferred (the green top tends to be peppery) and cooked directly in hot oil to extract its flavor. Both tops and root ends, minced or shredded, are popular as garnishes. Note: Other onions used are leeks, shallots and Spanish onions.

orange peel: See tangerine peel.

Oriental rice: See rice, long-grain.

oyster sauce:
A concentrate of oysters cooked in soy sauce and brine: a thick, grayish-brown liquid with fine bouquet. Used as a seasoning. Intensifies food flavors, without imparting its own. Makes food smooth, rich, subtle and velvety. Used with stir-fried meat, poultry, seafood, with congee and fried rice. Also used as a table condiment with roast pork, fried eggs, cold chicken and beef. Sold in cans and bottles. (See SUPPLEMENTARY INFORMATION, 22- Storing Information.)

oysters, dried:
Reddish-brown dried oysters with strong, tasty flavor. Can be stirfried with vegetables, steamed with minced pork, simmered in soups and stews. Must be soaked, then cleaned. Sold by weight. (See SUPPLEMENTARY INFORMATION, 23- Soaking Information.)
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parsley, Chinese
(cilantro or fresh coriander):
Medium-green herb with willowy stem, broad flat serrated leaves. Stronger and more distinctively flavored than the common frilly variety. Highly aromatic (it's called "Fragrant Green" in Chinese). Used as a garnish for soups and cold dishes, as a herb bouquet for poultry, as a flavoring for chopped meats. Should be used sparingly. Sold fresh by weight. To use: Wash. Discard tough stems. Chop leaves, or leave them whole. (See SUPPLEMENTARY INFORMATION, 22- Storing Information.)

parsnips, preserved: See turnips, preserved.

patna rice: See rice, long-grain.

pea pods: See snow peas.

pea sprouts: See bean sprouts.

peanuts:
Raw, shelled peanuts (not salted or roasted). Used in slow-cooked soups, also with chicken. Or spiced, as an hors d'oeuvre or eaten plain as snacks. Can also be toasted and used as a garnish, or combined with sesame seeds as a candy. Sold by weight. Note: There are two varieties: those with thin, reddish skin coverings and those without. The latter, already blanched, are easier to use. (See SUPPLEMENTARY INFORMATION, 22- Storing Information HOW-TO, _Almonds: To toast.)

peas, Chinese: See snow peas.

Peking sauce: See hoisin sauce.

pepper, anise:
Tiny, whole, reddish peppercorns with dark brown seeds. Used as pungent seasoning in slow-cooked dishes. Sold by weight.

pepper, black:
Ground black peppercorns used chiefly in seasoning noodle dishes and soups. Can also be heated with salt and used as a table condiment for deep-fried poultry. (See Seasonings and Sauces, Basic Pepper-Salt Mix.)

pepper, Chinese red:
Aromatic red pepper flakes, used in seasoning stir-fried dishes. Sold by weight. (See SUPPLEMENTARY INFORMATION, 21- Substitutions.)

pepper, Szechwan
(wild pepper):
Mildly hot spice with pleasant aroma. Resembles the black peppercorn but contains a small seed. Used with red-cooked meat and poultry, Chinese pickles, and pepper-salt mixes. Sold by weight.

peppers, chili:
Green chili peppers used as a hot seasoning, primarily in Szechwanese cooking.

pickle, Chinese: See tea melon.

pickled ginger: See ginger, subgum.

pickled mustard greens: See cabbage, pickled.

pickled vegetables: See pickles, Chinese.

pickles, Chinese
(pickled vegetables):
Various vegetables such as cucumbers, turnips, ginger, etc., shredded and pickled in soy sauce. Used with noodles, soups, and as a relish for congee. Sold in cans and jars. (See SUPPLEMENTARY INFORMATION, 22- Storing Information.)

pickles, mixed Chinese: See ginger, subgum.

pig, roast:
Glazed whole roast pig with crackling golden skin and sweet, rich fatty meat. Can be eaten as is, hot or cold, or steamed with shrimp sauce. Sold in pieces by weight.

Plum sauce
(duck sauce):
Amber-red chutney-like sauce made from plums, apricots, chili, vinegar and sugar. Piquant and thick. Used as a table condiment with roast duck, roast pork, spareribs and egg rolls. Also used occasionally in cooking. Sold in cans and bottles. (See SUPPLEMENTARY INFORMATION, 22- Storing Information.) Note: If taste is too tart, add a pinch of sugar.

pomelo:
Large yellow citrus fruit resembling a grapefruit but pointed rather than flat on top. Of delicate texture and sweet, delicate taste.

pork, roast:
Thick strips of barbecued pork prepared with spices and honey. Sold already roasted. Can be reheated ill the oven or eaten cold with various dips (oyster sauce is excellent). Can also be cooked in soup or stir-fried with vegetables. (Should be added at the end of cooking since it needs only brief reheating.) Sold by weight. (See SUPPLEMENTARY INFORMATION, 22- Storing Information.)

powdered silk noodles: See noodles, peastarch.

preserved cabbage: See cabbage, pickled.

preserved cucumber or preserved sweet melon: See tea melon.

preserved parsnips: See turnips, preserved.

purple laver: See seaweed, dried.

red bean curd cheese: See cheese, Chinese red.
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red bean sauce:
Sauce made from mashed red soy beans. Highly odoriferous. Used in poultry and meat dishes, with braised beef and eggplant. Available in cans.
red berries: An herb considered a nutrient tonic. Used in soups. Must be soaked. Sold by weight. (See SUPPLEMENTARY INFORMATION, 23- Soaking Information.)

red dates
(jujubes):
Small dried reddish fruit with shiny withered skin. Used to impart subtle sweetness to soups, stews, slow-cooked and steamed dishes, particularly fish and chicken. Also used in sweet dishes. (Is usually soaked for the latter.) Sold by weight. (See SUPPLEMENTARY INFORMATION, 23- Soaking Information 21- Substitutions.)

red seasoning sauce or red vegetable sauce: See hoisin sauce.

rice, glutinous
(starchy rice, sticky rice, or sweet rice):
Short-grained, opaque, pearly-white rice. Becomes sticky when cooked. Used with meat balls, as a stuffing for chicken and duck. Also in sweet congees, pastries, puddings, dumplings and banquet dishes. Must be washed and sometimes soaked before being used. (See SUPPLEMENTARY INFORMATION, 23- Soaking Information HOW-TO, _Glutinous Rice: To cook.)

rice, long-grain
(Oriental rice, patna rice):
Long, narrow-grained rice, most commonly used in South Chinese cooking. Absorbs more water than the oval-grained variety. Yields a larger quantity, a fluffier rice. Can be boiled, steamed or used in fried rice. Sold by weight.
rice, oval-grain (California rice, or short-grain rice): Rice with short, wide, oval grain. Requires less water, longer cooking to produce same consistency as long-grain variety. Tends to be softer and starchier. Can be boiled, steamed or used in congee. Sold by weight.

rice flour or rice powder: See flour, rice.

rice flour, glutinous: See flour, glutinous rice.

rice sticks: See noodles, rice-flour.

rice vinegar: See vinegar.

roast duck: See duck, roast.

roast pig: See pig, roast.

roast pork: See pork, roast.

rock sugar: See sugar, rock.
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salted black beans: See beans, black fermented.

salted fish: See fish, dried.

sauerkraut, Chinese: See cabbage, pickled.

sausage, Chinese
(Cantonese sausage):
Cured waxy pork sausage. Comes in narrow red and white links, each about 6 inches long, tied together as pairs. Sweet and savory. Can be steamed with rice, chicken or pork, combined with omelets and bean curd, or stir-fried with other meats and vegetables. Can also serve as an hors d'oeuvre. Sold by weight (4 pairs are about 1 pound). To use: Remove string. Wash with warm water. Steam or simmer until translucent, about 20 minutes. (See SUPPLEMENTARY INFORMATION, 22- Storing Information.)
sausage, liver:
Duck-liver sausage, similar in size and shape to the pork sausage but darker and not as sweet. Also sold in pairs by weight. Can be cooked with Chinese cabbage and other vegetables. (See SUPPLEMENTARY INFORMATION, 22- Storing Information.)

scallions: See onions.

scallions, pickled:
The bulb-like white tips of scallions pickled in vinegar, sugar and salt. Add crispness and flavor to sweet-and-sour fish sauces. Serve as a garnish for preserved eggs. Available in jars.

scallops, dried:
Coarse, strong, salty and highly nutritious sea scallops. Look like dried amber-colored disks. Measure about 1 inch in diameter, 1/2 inch in thickness. Used to add rich flavor to soups, congees and slow-cooked dishes. Can also be steamed with ham, stir-fried with Chinese cabbage, combined with eggs, turnips and radishes. Must be soaked. Sold by weight. (See SUPPLEMENTARY INFORMATION, 23- Soaking Information.)

sea cucumber or sea slug:

See bêche-de-mer. seasoning powder: See monosodium glutamate.

seaweed, dried
(purple laver):
Dark purple marine plant. Comes in tissue-thin sheets, 7 by 8 inches, folded in half. Called "paper vegetable" in Chinese. Must be soaked then doubles in size. Used in soup. Has a fresh, tangy seasweet taste. Is highly nutritious. Sold in packages by weight. (See SUPPLEMENTARY INFORMATION, 23- Soaking Information.)

seaweed, hair:
Fine hairlike black seaweed. Used mainly in savories and Buddhist vegetarian dishes. Must be soaked. Sold by weight. (See SUPPLEMENTARY INFORMATION, 23- Soaking Information.)

sesame oil: See oil, sesame.

sesame paste:
Ground sesame seeds, similar in taste and texture to peanut butter. Used in sauces and cold chicken dishes. Available in cans also sold under the name of "taheeni" in grocery stores specializing in Middle Eastern products, and sometimes in health food stores. (See SUPPLEMENTARY INFORMATION, 21- Substitutions.)

sesame seeds:
Small, flattish seeds used in flavoring cakes, candies, cookies. Available in two varieties: black and white. Sold by weight.

Shanghai cabbage: See cabbage, Chinese.

shark's fins: Rare, dried delicacy from the South Seas. Used mainly in thick, rich soups (served at formal Chinese dinners and banquets). Actually the cartilage of the fin, which is tasteless when fresh, but translucent, tasty and threadlike when dried. Is rich in vitamins, high in calcium and protein. Must be soaked. Available both with and without rough outer skin. The latter (which comes as hard, dry, grayish-white shreds) is preferable: it requires less preparation. Available in a number of grades: top grade is 5 inches long medium grade 2 to 3 inches the remnants about 1 inch. Can also be used as a poultry stuffiing, or with omelets, crabmeat, and pork. Sold by weight and in boxes. Very expensive. Also available canned. (See SUPPLEMENTARY INFORMATION, 22- Storing Information 23- Soaking Information.)

shining noodles: See noodles, peastarch.

short-grain rice: See rice, oval-grain.

shrimp, dried:
Tiny, hard pink-and-white shelled shrimp, about 1/2 inch in length. Enrich the flavor of bean curd, cucumbers, Chinese cabbage, spinach and eggplant. Can also substitute for pork or ham in soup. Must be soaked, or softened by steaming. Sold by weight. Note: There's also a larger variety of dried shrimp used in stews and slow-cooked soups. (See SUPPLEMENTARY INFORMATION, 23- Soaking Information 21- Substitutions.)

shrimp, miniature
(baby shrimp):
Tiny, shelled, deveined shrimp from South America. Sweet and tender, used frequently by Chinese restaurants in stir-fried dishes and egg-roll stuffings. Available frozen only in 5-pound blocks, from which 1 or 2 pounds can sometimes be purchased.

shrimp chips:
Dried shrimp slices colored white, pink and yellow. Must be deep-fried. Are eaten like potato chips with fried chicken or as a snack. Sold packaged by weight.

shrimp sauce
(shrimp paste):
Grayish-pink concentrate of dried ground shrimp preserved in brine. Very pungent. Similar to anchovies in saltiness. Used as a zesty flavoring for fish, pork, chicken, fried rice, bean curd and vegetables. Should be used sparingly. Sold in jars. (See SUPPLEMENTARY INFORMATION, 22- Storing Information 21- Substitutions.)

snow fungus: See mushrooms, snow.

snow peas
(Chinese peas, pea pods or sugar peas):
Special variety of pale-green pea pods, picked before maturity. Add crispness, subtle taste and color to meat, poultry, seafood and vegetables. Very tender. Require little cooking. Are always stir-fried to retain delicate color, flavor and vitamin content. Sold fresh by weight. Available year-round, but most inexpensive May through September. To use: Break off tips, remove strings. (See SUPPLEMENTARY INFORMATION, 22- Storing Information 21- Substitutions.) Note: Frozen snow peas are now available in a number of markets.

southern cheese: See cheese, Chinese red.

soy jam
(soybean paste):
A thick, dark paste, the sediment of soy sauce. Similar to molasses in color and texture. Very subtle. Used to color, flavor and thicken sauces of slow-cooked pork, beef, poultry. Also used to season string beans, fish and lobster. Sold in cans. (See SUPPLEMENTARY INFORMATION, 22- Storing Information.)

soy sauce:
Salty, savory brown sauce made from soybeans, wheat, yeast and salt. Essential in Chinese cooking. Enhances the flavor of meat, poultry, fish, vegetables. Colors and flavors gravies, sauces, marinades and dips. Comes in many grades and types, ranging in color from light to dark, in density from thin to thick. Specific types are: light, dark and heavy. Light soy (made with soybean extracts, flour, salt and sugar) is light-colored and delicate. It's used as a table condiment and in dishes such as clear soups where soy flavor but not color is desired. Dark soy (made from the same ingredients, plus caramel) is blacker, richer and thicker. It's used as a table condiment and also in cooking, when both full-bodied flavor and color are wanted. Heavy soy, made with molasses, is thick and viscous. It's used more for color than taste, in the rich, dark-brown sauces of sweet-and-pungent spareribs and stir-fried beef and peppers. Good quality soy is essential for good sauces and marinades. Many grades are available best are the Oriental imports. These are made slowly by a natural fermentation and aging process. (Domestic says, made quickly by a chemical process, tend to be highly concentrated, salty and bitter. These must be used in reduced quantities.) Chinese soy is available in the light, black and heavy varieties. Japanese soy, made with malt, is somewhere between the light and the black. Both types are sold in bottles and cans. (See SUPPLEMENTARY INFORMATION, 21- Substitutions.)

spiced red bean curd: See cheese, Chinese red.

spring roll skins: See eggroll skins.

squash, bottle (bottle gourd):
Green marrow, shaped like a squat bowling pin. A spring and summer vegetable. Used in soup and stir-fried dishes. Sold fresh by weight. To use: Peel and slice.

squash, Chinese:
Green marrow, either cylindrical or round and flat, with thin yellow stripes. Can be stir-fried by itself as a vegetable, or combined with beef, ham or fish. Sold fresh by weight. To use: peel and slice. (See SUPPLEMENTARY INFORMATION, 21- Substitutions.)

squash, Pleated: See okra, Chinese.

squid, dried:
Dehydrated and tentacled mollusk. Brown in color with a coating of whitish powder. Can be stir-fried with vegetables, prepared sweet-and-sour, simmered in soup or steamed. Must be soaked. Sold by weight. (See SUPPLEMENTARY INFORMATION, 23- Soaking Information.) Note: The fresh variety is usually stir-fried.

star anise: See anise, star.

starchy rice or sticky rice: See rice, glutinous.

straw mushrooms: See mushrooms, grass.

sugar, rock:
Amber-colored sugar used to sweeten certain teas, to glaze chicken. Sold by weight.

sugar peas: See snow peas.

summer melon: See fuzzy melon.

swallow's nest: See bird's nest.

sweet cucumber or sweet melon: See tea melon.

sweet rice: See rice, glutinous.

sweet root:
A Chinese herb, a nutrient tonic used in soups and other dishes. Must be soaked. Sold by weight. (See SUPPLEMENTARY INFORMATION, 23- Soaking Information.)

sweet tea pickle: See tea melon.

sweet vegetable paste or sweet vegetable sauce: See hoisin sauce.
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The Thousand Recipe Chinese Cookbook. ©1994 by Gloria Bley Miller.

More Recipes from the Thousand Recipe Chinese Cookbook Cookbook:
13- Preparing a Complete Meal
14- Serving a Chinese Meal
15- Setting a Chinese Table
16- Chopsticks and How to Use Them
17- Guide to Stir-Frying
18- Chinese Teas
19- Chinese Wines
20- Glossary of Chinese Ingredients: A-K
20- Glossary of Chinese Ingredients: L-S
20- Glossary of Chinese Ingredients: T-Z
21- Substitutions
22- Storing Information
23- Soaking Information
24- Chinese Terminology
25- Mail Order Sources