Serves: 5
AJWAIN SEEDS
This spice is known by various names--carom, lovage, omum, or Bishop's weed, with no one single English name. However, the name ajwain or ajowan is universal, so ajwain is what I call it throughout the book. These tiny brown or green brown, ridged, celery seed look-alikes are deceptively fragrance-free:, but when crushed, they release a strong and highly aromatic, thyme-like fragrance, which mellows down after cooking. When eaten raw, they have a hot, strong, pungent bite. Ajwain seeds are prized as a home remedy to relieve gas and stomachaches, and are often chewed raw by people with seasoned palates.
ASAFOETIDA
Hing or heeng. Asafoetiaa is the dried milky sap (resin) from the rhizome or root-stalk of a giant fennel-like perennial herb. It is dull yellow-brown, has a bitter taste and a very strong, pungent, and disagreeable odor--almost like rotten eggs--from the sulfur compounds that are present in it. But after cooking, this aroma adds a surprisingly pleasant garlic-onion flavor to the foods. Loaded with therapeutic benefits (carminative, digestion-stimulating, and antibiotic, to name just a few), asafoetida is indispensable to Indian cuisine. Buy your asafoetida in lumps (or fine granules) and then grind them at home. (That is what I have used in my recipes throughout the book.) The commonly available ground version has a mild flavor, because it comes mixed with rice flour and turmeric to mellow it.
BAY LEAVES
Tej patta, tejpat, or tej patra. Bay leaves come in two types: the leaves of the bay laurel found mostly in the Western world, and those of the Indian cassia tree. Used in much the same way as their western cousins, Indian bay leaves are deep green, long, and elliptical with pointy tips. They have a delicate and sweet, cinnamon-like fragrance, a bitter taste, and are valued as an appetite stimulant and for gas relief. The bark of this tree is often dried and used as cinnamon in many parts of the world, including the United States. (True cinnamon, however, is made from the bark of a different tree--see the entry on cinnamon.)
BLACK SALT
Kaala namak. Black salt, a rock salt, comes in irregular, rock-candy-type pieces, with smooth facets. The pieces are actually grayish-pink and almost odor-free but it has quite an unpleasant odor when ground--almost like hard-boiled egg yolks, from the sulfur and other mineral compounds in the salt. However, when it is added to foods, it dramatically heightens their flavors and imparts a pleasant tang and fragrance. Black salt is prized for its digestive and anti-gas properties. Do not use interchangeably with table salt.
CARDAMOM PODS
Illaichi. Cardamom pods, a signature Indian spice and also the world's third most expensive spice after saffron and vanilla, are the dried capsules of a perennial herb in the ginger family. There are two distinct types of cardamom pods in India: the small green and large black. Green cardamom pods (hari or choti illaiehi), are small triangular ovals, 1/3- to 1/2-inch long, each containing 3 segments with 18 to 20 tiny, sticky, mildly fragrant, brown-black seeds. When crushed or ground, they release a highly aromatic perfume with a hint of eucalyptus and camphor. Their initial bite is very strong, but mellows into a delicate and refreshing fragrance.
Black cardamom pods (kaali or bari illaiehi), are large black, somewhat hairy, triangular ovals 1/2- to 2/3-inch long. Each pod contains 3 segments, with 30 to 40 sticky seeds. When crushed, they have a strong, nutty and delicate woody-smoky aroma and are much milder than green ones.
Both cardamom pods are considered carminative (gas-relieving) and digestive, and are a popular home remedy for nausea and vomiting. Chewing the green pods also refreshes the mouth and sweetens the breath.
CHILES, FRESH GREEN AND DRIED RED
Mirch or mirchi. Chili peppers--fresh green (hari mirch) and dried red (laal mirch)--are part of the capsicum species. There are more than 150 varieties of chili peppers in the world, and as a general rule, the smaller ones are hotter than the larger ones. Most chiles start off green and turn to a shade of red as they age. The red ones are dried (in the shade or the sun) until all their moisture evaporates, leaving behind the wrinkled and brittle red chiles that we are familiar with. Indian cuisine uses both, the fresh green and the dried red.
When dried red chiles of any type (such as cayenne, chile de arbol, or those from the Indian markets) are finely ground the result is called pisi hui laal mirch, or dried red chili powder. In your cooking, you can use any pure ground chili powder. My recipes specify cayenne powder because it is easily available.
Chiles stimulate the taste buds and aid digestion. They are considered potent sinus, cough, and cold remedies. Common knowledge though this might be, it bears repeating: Basic common sense should be used when preparing or cooking with the hot chili peppers. Capsaicin and other oils in chiles will make the hardiest soul miserable if they come in contact with delicate membranes around the eyes and nose or skin. Wear plastic kitchen gloves or protect your hands in some way before handling them, and be sure to wash your hands thoroughly afterwards.
CINNAMON AND CASSIA
Dalchini or darehini. Cinnamon, known to cooks in ground or stick form, is the dried inner bark of the branches and young shoots of a tropical evergreen tree. There are 2 types of cinnamon: true cinnamon with tightly rolled "quills" or tubular sticks, with a rich fragrance and a warm and sweet aroma and taste that comes from Sri Lanka, the Seychelles Islands and southern India and cassia-cinnamon, with thicker, loosely rolled, almost flat quills and a less sweet and an intense and mildly bitter flavor and aroma. (This cinnamon comes from the Indian bay leaf and other cassia trees.) Cinnamon imparts a pleasant fragrance to foods, and aids overall digestion and other stomach ailments, such as gas and nausea.
CLOVES
Laung or lavang. Cloves are the air dried, brown-black, nail-shaped, unopened flower buds of a tropical mid-sized evergreen tree. Cloves, usually used whole or ground, are highly aromatic, with a sharp and pungent, yet sweet and almost bitter bite. They are carminative (gas-relieving), and aid digestion, colic, nausea, and vomiting.
CORIANDER SEEDS AND GREENS
Dhania, sookha, and paita or hara. Coriander seeds are the peppercorn-sized, ribbed, spherical, pale-green to beige-brown seeds of an annual, fern-like plant of the parsley family. All parts of the plant are used in cooking--the seeds, leaves, stems, and. even the roots of the young plants.
Two varieties of coriander seeds are available in the United States: the pale green-beige Indian variety that has a sweet, citrusy aroma (especially when crushed or ground), and the brown Moroccan variety, which is not quite as flavorful. Buy the seeds and grind them yourself, do not make them into a powder--a bit of texture remarkably increases the flavor of the foods. Coriander seeds are believed to be a body-cooling and strengthening spice. Like many other spices, they are also believed to be a carminative (gas-relieving) and digestive tonic, a diuretic, and a mild sedative.
Coriander greens (hara dhania), commonly called cilantro or Chinese parsley, are the leaves of the coriander plant. They are prized culinary herbs in Indian cuisine, as well as in other cuisines of the world. The greens have a distinctive, sweet and citrus-like flavor, and a pleasantly fragrant aroma. Although highly perishable and prone to wilting, I find that with a little care, cilantro keeps well in the refrigerator. Trim and wash the cilantro, then spin in a salad spinner and spread on kitchen or paper towels to air-dry until most of the moisture has evaporated. Transfer to zip-closure bags, toss in a small paper towel to absorb excess moisture, and store in the refrigerator about 1 week or longer if the leaves are fresh to start with. Chopped cilantro can be stored in a similar manner in airtight containers. Its best to use fresh leaves, the dried or frozen ones are totally flavorless.
CUMIN AND BLACK CUMIN
Jeera or zeera. Cumin seeds are the small, gray-brown, ridged, elongated, curved, dried fruits of a small annual herb of the parsley family. India grows two types of cumin seeds: the familiar brown seeds called sufaid jeera (sufaid is white) and the more exotic variety known as kaala, siyah, or shah jeer a (kaala and siyah mean black and shah is royal).
Cumin seeds have a strong, musky, spicy aroma and a pungent, bitter taste. Considered to be another cooling spice, cumin aids digestion, and relieves flatulence, colic, and other stomach disorders, including morning sickness and diarrhea. Cumin seeds are rich in thymol, which is a powerful antiseptic. Black cumin (not to be confused with caraway seeds, even though it is sometimes mistakenly called black caraway) is a rare cumin variety that grows in Kashmir (India), Pakistan, and Iran. These seeds are thinner and much darker than regular cumin and have a delicate and sweet aroma.
CURRY LEAVES
Meethi neem or kari patta. Curry leaves are the small, oval leaves of a tropical shrub or small tree native to southern India and Sri Lanka. Lightly aromatic when whole, they release an exotic, warm, nutty, yet citrusy aroma when they are crushed, bruised, or chopped. In one of those interesting quirks of culinary terminology, curry leaves, while used in a wide variety of curries, are not indispensable to them.
Curry leaves are slightly bitter, and therefore they are believed to be a tonic that removes toxins from the body, helps digestion, and acts as a: mild laxative. Their refreshing flavor is almost indescribable to the uninitiated, but unforgettable to those who try it. Once you get used to it, there is no turning back.
FENNEL SEEDS
Saunf .Fennel seeds--the long, ridged, oval or curved, green-yellow seeds of a tall, annual, feathery shrub--belong to the anise, dill, cumin, and caraway family. There are many varieties of fennel around the world and within India, each different in color, size, and aroma. Fennel seeds look like plumped-up cumin, taste somewhat like anise, and have a licorice-camphor aroma. They have a pleasantly fragrant bite and are often eaten raw, dry-roasted, or sugar-coated to aid digestion, relieve gas, and ease other digestive ailments, including colic in infants.
FENUGREEK SEEDS AND GREENS
Daana-methi or metharae and patta or hari methi. Fenugreek seeds are the dried, angular, yellow-brown seeds of a strongly scented annual herb of the legume family. Native to southeastern Europe--mainly the Mediterranean countries, where it is called Greek hay--fenugreek is now grown extensively in India and in other parts of the world. Fenugreek seeds, with their distinctive bouquet and a strong curry flavor, are very bitter when eaten raw. However, with a little stir-frying or dry-roasting, they are transformed into something quite unusual and exciting. These seeds are a natural home remedy believed to stimulate digestion and metabolism, purity the blood and to control sugar levels in diabetic patients.
Fenugreek greens (methi patta), the clover-like green leaves, though extremely aromatic and curry-flavored, are quite bitter. Despite this, Indians have a remarkable fondness for them. They are used fresh to make side, dishes, added to other green purées or air-dried (sookhi or kasoori methi) and used as a flavoring herb. To dry, place rinsed, blotted leaves on towels and air-dry outdoors in shade until crisp.
GINGER
Adrak, taaza, and sookha. Ginger is the knobby, buff-colored rhizome (underground stem) of a perennial tropical plant. Ginger rhizomes are dug out after the greens have died. When the ginger is young (often called green ginger), it is very juicy and has a transparent papery-thin skin that needs no peeling, but as it matures, the juices dry up and the skin hardens somewhat, losing its shine over time. This is the type we see most often in markets.
Choose large, plump pieces .with as thin and shiny skin as you can find. Any shriveling, dryness, or mold on the edges is a sign of age and excess fiber. Fresh ginger has little or no aroma, but once you peel or cut it, ginger emits a refreshingly warm, woody aroma with citrus undertones and has a pleasantly fragrant and peppery-hot bite.
Topping the list of India's therapeutic spices--and called maha-aushadhi or the greatest medicine by the Ayurvedic school of natural healing--ginger is highly valued as a stimulant to the digestive and circulatory systems. It is believed beneficial for nausea, fever, muscle aches and pains, and respiratory disorders. It is also considered a home remedy for flatulence, colic, indigestion, vomiting, morning and travel sickness, and similar ailments.
Dried ginger, called sonth or sund, is the sun-dried ginger rhizomes. Available in pieces or ground into a sand-colored powder, dried ginger has a sharp, sweet, lemony aroma and a pronounced peppery bite.
KALONJI
This. spice is known by various names--nigella, onion seeds, black onion seeds, black caraway seeds, and black cumin seeds, with no one English name as the standard. However, the name kalonji is widely recognized, so that is what I call it throughout the book.
Kalonji are tiny, charcoal black, triangular seeds strongly resembling onion seeds. They have a mild, oregano-like flavor and a fragrant, peppery, and slightly bitter bite which, after roasting or cooking, is transformed into a distinct nutty aroma and taste. Kalonji seeds are considered an appetite stimulant and are good for digestion.
KOKUM
Also cocum, cocamful fish tamarind. Kokum is the sun-dried rind of a 1/2- to 1-inch fruit of the mangosteen-oil tree (not to be confused with other mangosteen trees or fruits). The ripe fruits are enjoyed locally, but most of them are dried into the somewhat sticky, sour, purple-black pieces of kokum, as Indians call the spice. Tamarind is a good substitute.
MANGO POWDER
Amchur. Mango powder is a pale, finely ground powder made from sun-dried, unripe, tart green mangoes. As they dry in the sun, the flesh of the green mangoes shrivels up and turns buff-brown in color. Mango powder is extremely sour and acidic, with a touch of fruity sweetness and fragrance. Amchur is also available as small, thin, dried pieces and is considered a stimulating tonic for the stomach. Mango powder is a cooling spice that may also aid digestion.
MINT
Pudina, taaza, and sookha. Mint is one of the most valuable and popular herbs in the world. Native to temperate Europe and now grown almost everywhere, mint is an aromatic perennial herb with dark green, oval leave. With about 40 varieties of mint in the world, it is difficult to distinguish and classify each one of them. They all belong to the mentha family and all have essentially similar characteristics.
The fresh leaves (taaza pudina) are quite strong, pungent, and very aromatic, and the dried ones (sooka pudina) are somewhat mellow, yet full of minty flavor.
Prized as appetite stimulants and believed to be an indispensable home cure for indigestion and stomach disorders, mint leaves are a natural antiseptic that keep the mouth fresh and the taste buds healthy. Mint juice and mint tea are considered effective cold and sore throat remedies.
MIXED MELON SEEDS
Char-magaz. This special mixture of seeds comes from four different summer melons--cantaloupe, watermelon, cucumber, and pumpkin (char means four and magaz means brain). The seeds are almost fragrance-free and their taste is very delicate and mild, similar to pumpkin and sunflower seeds. As the Indian name suggests, this seed combination, rich in iron, zinc, and potassium, ranks high as brain food. It is believed to have body-cooling properties and considered to be mildly diuretic.
MUSTARD SEEDS AND GREENS
Raayi or rai, and sarson. Mustard seeds, the small round seeds of an annual plant of the cabbage family, are also one of the important Indian oilseed sources that is, the seeds are widely used to make oil. Mustard seeds grow in 'small 1-inch pods that must be collected when they are ripe--but before they burst--then dried and threshed. There are many mustard varieties worldwide, though three--the black, brown, and white (or yellow)--are the most popular.
Mustard seeds in India are usually tiny--much smaller than the types found in the United States--and come in colors ranging from reddish brown to a dark brown and are generally called black. In this book, I refer to the Indian variety simply as black mustard seeds. However, in most recipes the varieties are interchangeable because they have the same essential oils. I often make a colorful mustard seed mixture, similar to multi-colored peppercorn mixtures. Mustard seeds are almost fragrance-free and taste somewhat sharp, bitter, and hot. Once pan-cooked, they impart a mild, tangy flavor and a toasty, nutty fragrance. They are considered a good overall therapeutic spice. They are believed to stimulate the appetite, act as a carminative (gas-reliever) and a diuretic, as well as relieve respiratory trouble.
Mustard greens (sarson) are generously endowed with vitamins A and C, and with iron and calcium. They are very strong tasting and are generally combined with other mild greens, such as spinach, to balance flavors. Mustard oil (sarson ka tael) is a natural preservative and is used extensively in chutneys and pickles, and for cooking.
NUTMEG AND MACE
Jaiphul andjavitri. Nutmeg and mace are two distinct spices obtained from the same apricot-like fruit of a tall evergreen tree. (The fruit itself is not eaten.) Nutmeg is a wrinkled, medium brown, 1-inch oval nut that lies nestled inside the thin, brittle, shiny outer shell of a ripe nutmeg seed. To get to the nutmeg, the shell has to be cracked open.
Mace is the lacy, web-like covering wrapped around the outside of the nutmeg shell. This brilliant scarlet-red aril is skillfully removed after the fruit bursts open, and is then flattened and dried to become brittle yellow-orange mace, as we know the spice:
Nutmeg has a rich, warm, citrusy, antiseptic fragrance and balances a bitter, yet sweet, flavor. Mace has a similar but much more defined and slightly more bitter flavor. Nutmeg and mace are both considered quite valuable in pharmaceutical preparations. They are narcotic and should not be consumed in large quantities. When used in moderation, they are considered a stimulant, carminative (gas-reliever), astringent, and aphrodisiac.
PAPRIKA
Kashmiri degi mirch or rang vaali mirch. Indian paprika is the brilliant red powder made from mild, non-pungent red chiles. Used mainly for its color, this powder is almost devoid of heat because, even from these mild chiles, all the seeds and veins are removed before they are dried and ground. Most of the Indian paprika comes from Kashmir, hence the name, Kashmiri degi mirch. The mild Hungarian paprika is a good substitute. Rich in vitamin C and considered an appetite stimulant, paprika holds a place of honor in the Indian spice rack. It has a sweet chili-like aroma and a bitter aftertaste, which mellows dramatically after it is sizzled in oil.
PEPPERCORNS
Kaali mirch. Black pepper, often known as the king of spices, is one of the oldest and probably the most popular spice known to humanity. The pepper plant is a branching evergreen creeper found mainly in the hot and humid monsoon forests of southwest India. The berries of this plant are called peppercorns. Ranging in color from green, black, and red to white, the peppercorns grow in clusters and are initially green. As they mature, they turn from green to yellow to orange to red. (They do not however, turn to black, as one would expect.) Black peppercorns are actually processed green peppercorns. This manual process involves picking the fully mature (but still unripe) green berries and drying them in the sun. As they dry they shrivel up and take on the familiar brown-black color.
Green peppercorns are the small, soft, immature, caper-like berries, which are freeze-dried or brine-packed while they are still unripe and green. They have a very delicate flavor. White peppercorns are the fully ripe yellow-red berries, with their outer skin removed. They have a milder flavor but a stronger bite. Black peppercorns have a strong, fragrant, peppery hot bite and a rich, earthy aroma. Their heat, though, does not linger for too long. Their aroma and flavor increases dramatically after they are lightly dry-roasted and then coarsely ground. Prized as a home remedy for flatulence and sore throats (especially when mixed with honey), they are believed to clear the sinuses, stimulate the appetite, and aid digestion.
POMEGRANATE SEEDS, DRIED
Anaardana. Pomegranate seeds, used as a spice, are actually the sun-dried or dehydrated, fruity seeds and the flesh of a wild pomegranate tree. As they dry, the juicy flesh around the seeds forms a reddish-brown, sticky coating with a tangy, fruity, sweet aroma and a predominantly sour, acidic taste. Pomegranate seeds are believed to cool the body, aid digestion, and relieve gas.
POPPY SEEDS
Khas-khas. Indian poppy seeds are the tiny, pale yellow-white seeds of the opium-producing poppy plant. Contained in a capsule-like head that develops after the flower dies, the best poppy seeds in India come from the capsules from which opium has not been extracted. (Opium is the milky sap that oozes out once the capsule is open.) The seeds, however, are opium-free.
Poppy seeds come in three different colors: the familiar blue-gray from Europe, the brown from Turkey, and the pale yellow-white from India. All these are very similar in taste and flavor and can be used interchangeably in recipes where color is not important. Raw poppy seeds have a light and sweet aroma, and a pronounced, nutty, almond-like flavor. They are cooling to the body, high in protein, and are considered cures for fever, thirst, stomach irritation, and insomnia.
ROSE WATER AND ESSENCE
Gulaab jal and ruh gulaab. Rose water and rose essence are made from the petals of specially. cultivated, highly fragrant, deep pink-red roses, called succha or pure gulaab. Rose water, as the name suggests, looks just like water but exudes a strong, sweet, rosy fragrance. Rose essence is a concentrated version of rose water and, like other flavors and essences, is available in small bottles. Two drops of rose essence are equivalent to 1 tablespoon of rose water.
SAFFRON
Kaesar or zaffron. Saffron threads are the dried orange to deep-red stigmas and tips of the saffron crocus, a member of the iris family. Most of the Indian saffron comes from Kashmir. Saffron has a distinctly warm, rich, powerful, and enticing bouquet and a characteristic bitter taste. It imparts an exotic fragrance and a favored yellow color to all dishes. This color shows up best in the paler milk-based desserts and sauces, and in pullaos (pilafs). Saffron is believed to be cooling to the body and, in addition to other things, acts as a stimulant, especially for the heart and brain. In large doses, however, saffron is a narcotic.
SCREWPINE ESSENCE
Kewda or ruh kewra. Screwpine is the essence made from the flowers of a tropical tree with narrow, sword-like leaves. This concentrated clear liquid exudes a delicate floral or piney perfume, which is subtly different from rose essence but is used in much the same way.
SESAME SEEDS AND OIL
Til or gingelly. Sesame seeds are the tiny, smooth, oval, flat seeds of an annual tropical herb. These popular oilseeds (they are used for making oil) come in white, brown, and black colors, are almost fragrance-free and mildly sweet, but when dry-roasted, they provide a rich, nutty fragrance and taste. They are high in protein and calcium and are believed to have a warming effect on the body. They are considered beneficial to the respiratory, digestive, and female reproductive systems.
Sesame oil, also known as gingelly oil, is a popular oil used in cooking in southern Indian cuisine and has properties similar to olive oil.
SILVER LEAVES
Chandi ka verk or vark. Not a true spice, but used as a garnish the way some other seasonings are, silver leaves are an integral part of North Indian cuisine. These 4- to 6-inch squares, made with pure silver, are formed by sandwiching thin sheets of silver between layers of ordinary paper and pounding them until they are paper thin, weightless, and indescribably delicate. Today it is done with rollers.
When a recipe calls for verk, pick up one sheet of paper with its clinging silver leaf and carefully lay it, silver side down, on the dish to be garnished. As you do this, the silver will adhere to the dish and the paper can then be lifted off.
STAR ANISE
Badian, badiyan, dodhful dodphul and anasphal. Star anise is the dried mahogany-colored, 8-pointed, star-shaped fruit of a large evergreen tree. Each of the eight tips of this star has a bead-like seed. Star anise has a sweet flavor, reminiscent of fennel and anise, even though it is no relation to them. Star anise is considered to be carminative (gas-relieving) and good for the stomach and intestines.
TAMARIND
Imli. Tamarind, also known as Indian dates, are the buff to dark brown, sticky fruits contained inside the bean-shaped pods of the evergreen tamarind tree. Covering the fruit is a brittle, buff-brown shell and inside the pulp are flat, shiny, 1/2-inch seeds. Tamarind has a mild, fruity, sweet and sour fragrance, and a predominantly acidic, sour, and slightly sweet taste. Tamarind is rich in minerals and vitamins, especially vitamin C, and is considered a natural body cooler. It may aid digestion, and can relieve colds and throat infections (especially when used as a gargle). It is a mild laxative and stomach soother.
TURMERIC
Haldi. Turmeric, a bright yellow-orange powder in the form we know, is actually the boiled, peeled, sun-dried rhizome of a tropical plant of the ginger family. The rhizome, similar in size and shape to fresh ginger, has short "fingers" and bright orange flesh. Turmeric has a warm, peppery aroma, reminiscent of ginger, and a strong, bitter taste that really mellows upon cooking. This spice is also probably one of the most valuable everyday spices of Indian cuisine. Considered a natural antiseptic, an anti-inflammatory, and a blood purifier, turmeric is used as a home cure to relieve everything from upset stomachs to aches and pains.
From "1,000 Indian Recipes." Copyright 2002 by Neelam Batra. Used with permission of the publisher, Wiley Publishing, Inc. All Rights Reserved.
This 05- Spices and Herbs Guide recipe is from the 1000 Indian Recipes Cookbook. Download this Cookbook today.
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