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1 tablespoon salt, plus more to taste
1 pound dried pasta such as fusilli, penne, ziti, or rigatoni
6 tablespoons unsalted butter
1/2 cup all-purpose flour, preferably unbleached
4 cups milk
2 cups evaporated milk
Freshly ground pepper to taste
Freshly grated nutmeg to taste
1 1/2 cups each freshly shredded gruyére cheese, Emmenthaler cheese, sharp cheddar cheese
1 cup freshly grated parmesan cheese


1. Stir the 1 tablespoon salt into a large pot of rapidly boiling water. Drop the pasta into the boiling water and cook, stirring frequently, until tender but still firm to the bite. Drain into a colander, rinse under cold running water, drain again, transfer to a large bowl, and set aside.

2. Preheat the oven to 350ºF. Grease a 9-by-13-inch baking dish and set aside.

3. In a heavy saucepan, melt the butter over low heat. Whisk in the flour and cook, whisking or stirring almost constantly, until bubbly and fragrant, about 5 minutes; do not brown. Remove from heat.

4. Meanwhile, in a saucepan, combine the milk and evaporated milk and bring just to a boil over medium-high heat. Pour all at once into the butter and flour mixture and whisk until smooth. Season with salt, pepper, and nutmeg. Place the pan over medium heat and cook, whisking or stirring constantly, until thickened, about 5 minutes. Pour over the cooked pasta and stir to thoroughly coat the pasta. Spread the pasta evenly in the prepared baking dish.

5. In a bowl, combine the four cheeses, then sprinkle evenly over the pasta. Lightly dust the top with grated nutmeg and bake until the cheese melts and the pasta is heated through, about 25 minutes.

6. Transfer the baking dish to the broiler and cook until the cheese is slightly golden, about 3 minutes.


To make ahead: Store, covered, in the refrigerator for up to 3 days.

To reheat: Heat in a microwave or a preheated 350°F oven until heated through.