For smooth and fluffy mashed potatoes, a potato ricer is the best tool. Potato ricers look and work just like giant garlic presses: You put the cooked potatoes in a hopper and squeeze the handles to force the spuds through a perforated disk. The best ricers produce a uniform texture that is not lumpy, overworked, or gummy.

Several years ago, the experts at America's Test Kitchen crowned the RSVP International Potato Ricer ($13.95) their winner because of its efficient design; interchangeable fine and coarse disks; sturdy, ergonomic handles; and a pot hook to hold the ricer steady. Just last week I saw them test this tool once more, against new competition, five more brands they gathered, ranging in price from $10 to $30.

It was interesting to see how every ricer got the job done; the difference was in how easy or difficult it was for the cook. Some ricers required a considerable amount of brute force, but others pressed the potatoes effortlessly. After taking a closer look, the Test Kitchen pros found a few key design differences that explained why. Here's what they had to say:

"The number of perforations was one of the biggest factors. While all ricers had holes similar in size, having more holes on the bottom of the hopper made the job much easier, because more food could travel through, rather than being pushed back. Perforations on the sides as well as the bottom of the hopper didn't help; instead, the ricers usually squirted spuds out of the bowl, making an annoying mess.

"The plunger's angle of approach was also important: Most plungers hit the potatoes lopsided-making some spuds spurt up and out of the hopper-only leveling out and pressing fully and evenly when they were halfway down the hopper.

"Only two models sported different designs that resulted in more efficient ricing. One had a rectangular plunger that remained level with its rectangular hopper throughout the process, while a round model angled its rim to match the angle of the descending plunger. Both kept potatoes neatly under the plunger during the entire process, for more efficient ricing and easier squeezing.

"Finally, some models were much easier and more intuitive to dismantle, clean, and reassemble than others. A few took real force to pull apart and the instruction manual to put back together, and one trapped dishwater in its numerous nooks and crannies. Our winner was the easiest to use and the most efficient when it comes to making fluffy mashed potatoes."

So to recap what I learned-the RSVP Ricer is still the winner, no matter what new products have hit the market. And BTW: the 2nd runner up was the OXO 3-In-One Ricer. But the Test Kitchen pros couldn't have been more adamant about choosing the RSVP model though-price and 3 stars all across the board made it the logical choice.

HIGHLY Recommended: RSVP International Potato Ricer. This rectangular, highly efficient plastic model with comfortable handles was the easiest ricer to squeeze. Its interchangeable disks neatly produce a range of fine to coarse textures, and its sturdy hook rests securely on a pot rim. ($13.95)

• Cleaning
• Ease of Use
• Performance

Recommended: OXO 3-in-1 Adjustable Potato Ricer. This new model from OXO features an innovative adjustable dial to set the size of the perforations with a twist. The ricer dismantles easily for cleaning, and we liked its sturdy pot hook and cushioned grip. However, as we squeezed the handles, potatoes came up and around the plunger. Finally, fewer perforations than our winner meant more effort to process the potatoes. ($29.99)

• Cleaning
• Ease of Use
• Performance

One final word from moi: Why bother with a ricer—won't an electric mixer do the same job? Nope. My own personal tests using both tools have convinced me the ricer is the way to go if you want smooth and fluffy mashed potatoes-and who doesn't? I've been able to get the smooth part down with the electric mixer, but the fluffy part has always evaded me. Not any more!