(and Delicious Recipe that Uses this Fundamental)

Let’s talk mirepoix. Mire WHAT, you might be asking? MirePOIX (pronounced meer-pwaah). According to Wikipedia (and any good cook book), a mirepoix is diced vegetables, cooked for a long time on a gentle heat without color or browning, usually with butter or other fat or oil. It is not sautéed or otherwise hard cooked, the intention being to sweeten rather than caramelise.

Mirepoix is a fundamental element of classical cuisine, sort of the proton, neutron and electron of the culinary arts. And as such, it goes in everything: stocks, sauces, soups, and it’s scattered at the bottom of the roasting pan when you roast a chicken.

And it’s made up of three basics: carrots, celery and onions. When combined, these three simple ingredients, commonly referred to as "aromatics," come together to add flavor and aroma to stocks, sauces, soups and other foods.

Traditional mirepoix consists of two parts onions, one part carrots and one part celery, with the proportions determined by weight. Therefore, one pound (16 oz) of mirepoix would take 8 ounces of onions, 4 ounces of carrots and 4 ounces of celery.

You’ll find ethnic food cooks use a little license with this, though. For instance, Cajun chefs use a variation on mirepoix by combining three parts onions, two parts celery and one part green bell pepper. This is serious stuff and whatever ethnicity, the mirepoix is referred to it as "the holy trinity."

And other variations, like the Spanish and Italian sofrito or the German suppengrün, utilize tomatoes, parsnips, leeks, celery root, fennel bulb, shallots or garlic.

The consistent theme, however, is always seeking for aromatic flavor and undertones. The bottom line is that this is achieved with a mirepoix, whatever your ingredients or proportions may be.

A common, quick way to cook mirepoix is to brown the onions and carrots together on medium-high heat (sauté) and then add the celery, cooking until soft. This develops a deeper flavor profile, and is especially delicious in soups. The method you use will depend on what you’re cooking. Any recipe that uses a mirepoix variation should give you specific instructions. If it doesn’t, assume the method above is used.

The size you cut your vegetables should be relative to the amount of time they’ll spend cooking. The smaller your vegetables are, the faster they’ll release their aromas. For example, if you’re making a…

• small pan-fried dish, you’ll probably want a ¼- to 1/8-inch dice so they cook in only a few minutes.

• soup or stew, you might want ½- to ¾-inch pieces so that they’ll take a bit longer, but still add body and texture.

• stock or broth, you might want 1- or 2-inch chunks so that they cook in a couple hours with a simmer.

• slow roasted meat, you may want 3+ inch chunks so that they can continue to add flavor over a few hours.

As you might guess, creating a mirepoix takes some time, what with all the chop-chopping needed. We die-hard Cook’n cooks don’t mind that so much, right? If we have the time and energy, that is. But what about those times when we don’t?

That dilemma leads me to introduce a product I first discovered when reading a great foodie blog, Pinch of Yum (www.pinchofyum.com). Food writer and photographer, Lindsay, showcased Trader Joe’s pre-chopped mirepoix. This is a high quality short-cut ingredient. I don’t promote store-bought when I can do-it-myself, but sometimes store-bought comes to the rescue, and we’re all glad.

Now let’s look at a recipe that uses this important mirepoix. I found this on CBC Canada (www.cbc.ca) and it receives raves every time we make it. And BTW: this one adapts well to Dutch oven cooking outdoors, if you don’t want to heat up the house using your oven! But however you use it, do use it. Mirepoix is a cooking fundamental you always want to incorporate.

MEAT AND POTATO LOVERS’ SHEPHERD’S PIE

1 package dried porcini mushrooms

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1 pound lean ground beef

1 pound ground lamb (sausage is a good substitute)

2 ounces pancetta, diced

1 large onion, finely diced

2 celery stalks, finely diced

2 carrots, finely diced

2 cloves garlic, minced

1 teaspoon crumbled, dried rosemary

1 teaspoon crumbled, marjoram

1 teaspoon dried thyme

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon pepper

2 cups cremini mushrooms, quartered

1/4 cup red wine

2 cups sodium-reduced beef broth

2 tablespoons tomato paste

2 teaspoons Worcestershire sauce

4 tablespoons all-purpose flour

PIE TOPPPING:

8 Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled and cubed

1/4 cup milk

1/4 cup cream

2 tablespoons butter

1/2 teaspoon Dijon mustard

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon pepper

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

2 leeks, thinly sliced

1. Soak dried porcini mushrooms in 1 cup boiling water for about 30 minutes or until softened.

2. Meanwhile, in large shallow Dutch oven, heat half of the oil over medium-high heat; brown beef, lamb and pancetta for 8 minutes or until no pink remains. With slotted spoon, transfer to paper towel-lined bowl. Drain fat from pan.

3. In same pan, heat remaining oil over medium heat; cook onion, celery, carrots, garlic, rosemary, thyme, salt and pepper for about 6 minutes or until softened. Stir in cremini mushrooms; cook until golden, about 6 minutes.

4. Stir in wine, scraping up brown bits; boil until no liquid remains. Stir in stock, tomato paste, Worcestershire sauce, porcini mushrooms and soaking liquid and meat mixture. Bring to boil; reduce heat and simmer, uncovered, for 25 minutes.

5. Whisk flour with 1/4 cup water; whisk into meat mixture and bring to boil. Boil for 5 minutes or until thickened. Scrape into 13- x 9-inch glass baking dish.

6. Topping: In saucepan of boiling salted water, cover and cook potatoes for about 20 minutes or until tender. Drain and return to pot. Return to heat until no liquid remains, about 1 minute. Mash with potato masher; beat in milk, butter, mustard, salt and pepper.

7. Meanwhile, in small saucepan, heat oil over medium-low heat; cook leeks for 6 minutes or until softened. Stir into potatoes; spread over meat mixture.

8. Bake at 375°F for 50 to 60 minutes or until potatoes are golden and slightly crusty. (Make-ahead: Let cool for 30 minutes; refrigerate until cold. Cover and refrigerate for up to 24 hours; reheat in 375°F oven for 30 minutes.)

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