Do you ever make soufflé? This delectable dish sums up French cuisine, a bravura display of timing and skill. People tend to shy away from them, thinking they’re too hard to make. But when you follow the rules, and with just a few minutes' work, the soufflé puffs in the oven to impressive heights, perhaps doubling its original volume.

It's all a matter of folding whisked egg whites into a basic flavoring mixture: Cheese is a favorite flavoring for savory soufflés but fish and shellfish, especially chopped cooked shrimp or salmon are also delicious. And poultry possibilities include chicken, turkey, and best of all, game such as pheasant.

Note that all these basic ingredients must be already cooked, which is why the soufflé is a favorite way the French like to use up leftovers.

Sweet soufflés are more divine and make a spectacular finale to a grand dinner. Chocolate soufflé is the most common, but Grand Marnier-, raspberry-, and banana-flavored are coming into their own. I’ve even tried coconut and it was a huge success.

For all soufflés, vivid seasoning is important so that the basic mixture balances the blandness of egg whites. So think herbs, garlic, anchovy, mustard, Tabasco, Worcestershire and soy sauce, for savory soufflés. And go with lemon juice, rum, kirsch and liqueurs for a sweet soufflé.

There's only one crucial secret to the perfect soufflé and that is careful whisking of the egg whites. It’s absolutely necessary that they keep their volume and puff to a maximum in the oven. The whites should be at room temperature and you can reckon at least one and a half per person. When whisked and folded into the flavoring mixture, this will fill a one-cup ramekin. For a one-quart soufflé dish you will need six egg whites.

Whether you are whisking by hand or with the whisk attachment on the electric mixer, start whisking slowly to a generous froth, adding a small pinch of salt to the whites to break them up. Gradually increase speed as the volume of whites grows, until at full speed they tighten to a dense foam that forms a short peak when the whisk is lifted. (Be careful not to over-whisk as the foam will separate and curdle.)

When folding the whisked egg whites into the basic mixture, start by stirring a generous spoonful of whites into the mixture. Then return this egg-white-mixture into the remaining whites and fold, cutting across the center and under the mixture with a rubber spatula, revolving the bowl with your other hand in the opposite direction. Continue just until the soufflé mixture is smooth.

That's it. A perfectly mixed soufflé will rise in any oven, hot or medium; it can even linger for approximately 15 minutes before baking. Call the guests and get them seated. In case you’re not in France, you may need to explain the urgency. While French guests will understand the delicate nature of a soufflé and the reason to hurry, others need to know that once risen, a soufflé will not wait.

I’ve been making spinach and cheese soufflés for years. We enjoy how pretty yet hearty this dish is. Served with a salad and crusty bread, you have a great supper anyone would enjoy. In case you’d like to give this idea a try, here’s a perfect recipe to get you started.

EASY SPINACH AND CHEESE SOUFFLE

Butter

Grated Parmesan cheese or bread crumbs

4 egg yolks

5 egg whites

1/2 teaspoon cream of tartar

1/4 cup butter

1/4 cup all-purpose flour

1 cup milk

1 cup shredded cheddar cheese

1 (10-ounce) package frozen chopped spinach, thawed and wrung-out dry

1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees.

2. Butter and dust a 1-1/2 quart souffle dish with grated Parmesan or breadcrumbs.

3. Separate the eggs. Put egg whites in mixer bowl with cream of tartar.

4. To make a white sauce, in a medium saucepan over medium high heat, melt the butter until it bubbles. Stir in the flour and cook, stirring constantly until smooth and bubbly. Stir in milk all at once, than cook and stir until mixture boils and is smooth and thickened. To flavor the white sauce, stir in the cheese until melted. Stir in the spinach.

5. Set aside.

6. Beat the egg whites only until they cling to the side of the mixing bowl when you roll and tilt it.

7. Add the yolks to the sauce, and stir.

8. To fold the sauce into the whites, first mix about a quarter of the whites right into the sauce in the pan, then empty the sauce into the whites in the mixing bowl.

9. Gingerly but thoroughly fold the sauce into the whites.

10. Then pour that mixture into the prepared souffle dish.

11. Bake for about 30 to 40 minutes. Don't open oven door for at least 30 minutes.

12. Serve immediately.

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