The best time to make an apple pie is all the time. It’s one of those foods that fits any season. In the summer I prefer to add lemon zest and vanilla, while in the fall and winter I prefer cinnamon, but it all ends up the same way: fragrant apples rendered soft by heat, and delivered in a vehicle of perfect, flaky happiness.

One reason I love apple pie is because of my Dutch roots. The apple pie was introduced in the early American Colonies by Dutch immigrants (called appeltaart), so when I make it, I feel close to my family. Another reason I make it is because it’s a symbol of home-centered American values (WWII soldiers used to say they were fighting for “mom and apple pie,” which gave birth to the saying “as American as apple pie”).

The main reason I love apple pie is because it’s just plain good. I love the floral aroma of baked apples. I love how they’re sweet and tangy, and how some cinnamon, nutmeg and black pepper (yes, you read that right) really make them sing. I love how they have texture—some bite, plenty of softness, but still something to chew on, all wrapped in flaky crust. I love the way they contrast with some cool, freshly whipped cream or Hagan Dazs (though honestly, I prefer whipped cream to ice cream).

I’ve made more apple pie than any other pie. Let’s jump into some of the things that make an amazing one.

Common Apple Pie Mistakes

Overcrowding the Filling: One of the biggest mistakes is packing the pie with too many apples. While it might seem like a good idea to overstuff the pie to make it extra juicy, it often leads to uneven cooking and a filling that runs over or doesn’t set properly. Too much filling can also cause the crust to collapse.

Soggy Bottom Crust: A soggy crust is a classic mistake. It happens for three main reasons: your crust isn’t flaky enough, you let it sit too long before baking, or the filling was too juicy. The solution is simple: get the right crust recipe (and make it the right way), get the right filling recipe (and make it the right way), and cook the pie immediately after assembling. I’ll give you the right recipe later.

Not Prepping Apples Properly: Apples should be peeled, cored, and sliced evenly. Slicing them too thin or unevenly can result in some parts being overcooked and others undercooked. If you slice too thickly, they might not soften enough. My mom uses a special gadget that simultaneously cores, peels, and slices apples. I would love one, but for now I peel my apples, then slice them uniformly using a mandolin.

Not Using the Right Apples: While it’s tempting to use whatever apples are on hand, using the wrong variety can result in a lackluster pie. Sweet apples, like Red Delicious or Fuji, tend to break down too much during baking and create a mushy filling. Stick with tart, firm apples like Granny Smith, which hold their shape and provide the perfect balance of sweet and tart flavor.

Underbaking or Overbaking: Apple pies need to bake long enough for the filling to thicken and for the apples to cook down properly. Underbaking can leave the apples crunchy and unappetizing, while overbaking can dry out the filling and crust. Pay attention to visual cues: the crust should be golden and the filling should be bubbling through the vents. Don’t worry about a little blackening of the crust (or if you do, just cover the edges in tinfoil once they’re brown). But the really important thing is to watch for that bubbling filling, which usually takes about an hour to occur.

Not Letting It Cool: After baking, it’s crucial to let the pie cool for at least an hour before slicing. This allows the filling to set properly. If you cut into the pie too soon, the filling will run everywhere, and you won’t get the perfect slice.

Texture and Flavor

A good apple pie has some bite to it. It’s not crunchy, but it’s certainly not just a bunch of mush. Nobody wants an “apple sauce” pie. Meanwhile, an apple pie should taste like warm apples. It shouldn’t be a caramel pie or a cinnamon pie. It certainly shouldn’t be a cornstarch slurry pie. To get the perfect texture and flavor, you need four things:

• Make a really good crust. Flaky and buttery are mandatory (the other option is soggy and sad)
• Not too many additives! A perfectly wonderful pie filling has nothing but apples and sugar. Some spices for added depth. When you get too focused on adding cornstarch, flour, gelatin, and every other fancy mix-in to give it “body,” you’ll eventually cloy the filling up and end up with a weird mouthfeel. Not to mention, add too many spices and whatnot, and this will taste less and less like an apple pie. Let apples be apples.
• Use Granny Smith. Green apples hold their shape much better when applied to strong heat. Red apples soften very quickly and turn to mush. Yuck. I’m much happier eating them raw. On top of that, sugar is important for creating a caramelized filling, and all that sweetness does well when offset by the tartness of a green apple. Use red apples, and you just end up with sweet on sweet with the consistency of baby food.
• Cut to the right size. As I said above, uniform cuts are mandatory (meaning every slice is the same size, and ideally the same thickness throughout as well).

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    Matthew Christensen
    Weekly Newsletter Contributor since 2023
    Email the author! matthew@dvo.com