The Five Fundamentals of Cooking with Cheese
Way back in the fifth grade when I first started learning to cook, I melted some cheddar cheese onto leftover rice, then mixed it with salsa. I then texted my buddy Gordon Ramsey and told him there was a new boss in town.
Soon after that, I concocted a special quesadilla that featured… hang on, *checks notes*... every cheese in my parents’ fridge. Clearly I was a culinary mastermind. The equivalent of Wolfgang Puck.
The ultimate inspiration was when my cousin visited from California and showed me his bespoke sandwich recipe: white bread, ketchup, mustard, and cheddar cheese. Microwaved. I worshiped my cousin back then, which meant this sandwich was clearly ambrosia sent from Olympus.
Here’s the thing… I don’t know if I’m alone in this, but when I used to experiment in the kitchen, it always came down to finding some way to eat lots of cheese. It took me a minute to realize that if I were an artist, what I was doing was the culinary equivalent of dumping a gallon of motor oil across my workstation and calling it an original masterpiece (though let’s be real, I’m sure some artists would do that and feel quite accomplished).
Anyway, I’ve studied cheese quite a bit since then, and I’ve learned to think of cheese in a few different ways. In truth, the most important factor is to compare a cheese's meltability with its sharpness, but you can still divide cheese into five important realms of thought. Let’s dig into them.
Function
We’re starting with what I consider the most important concept. This category focuses on what the cheese does in a dish—melting, binding, browning, or holding its shape. This isn’t just culinary fluff; understanding function helps you choose the right cheese for a recipe. This breaks down into a few basic functions:
- Melting Cheeses: Mozzarella, Fontina, Gruyere — ideal for pizza, fondue, or baked dishes.
- Non-Melting Cheeses: Paneer, Halloumi — holds shape in high heat, great for grilling or frying.
- Binding Cheeses: Ricotta, cream cheese — adds moisture and structure to fillings or batters.
- Browning Cheeses: Parmesan, cheddar — caramelizes beautifully in baked or broiled dishes.
The harder or sharper a cheese is, the worse it is at melting.
That’s why parmigiano-reggiano is almost always a finishing/garnishing cheese (unless you’re getting all fancy with Italian alfredo) and why Philadelphia cream cheese is almost always a binding cheese (unless you’re eating it with crackers). This knowledge saves your dishes from turning into disappointing, gloopy messes or rubbery disasters. It’s what helps you decide to use ricotta inside your lasagna while it bakes and a mozzarella-cheddar blend for the top (this is an American lasagna, you elitists, so get out of here with your parmigiano purism).
Flavor
Right up there with function is flavor. The flavor profile of the cheese has to fit the vibe. Mild cheeses let other ingredients shine. Sharp or tangy cheeses punch up a bland dish. Pungent cheeses... well, they’re bold and divisive, but if used right, they can transform a dish (I personally love some good feta on my eggs or over a salad).
Is cheese the star of this dish or just a supporting character? If it’s the main character you’ll probably go with a blend of cheeses to maximize flavor and texture variety. If it’s just a supporting character, you’ll either go with a wet, bland cheese to provide some creaminess and base or a hard, sharp cheese to add some zing and bite.
To many an aspiring chef, the constant question is “shall I cheese?” The wrong answer is “always yes and always cheddar.” Understanding the sliding scale between mild/soft and sharp/hard cheeses is the key to prevent turning family dinner into a flavor battleground.
Heat Tolerance/Preparation Method
How a cheese behaves under heat is crucial. Cheddar may melt into silky perfection, but crumble a finishing cheese like feta into a hot pan, and you’ve got a sad pile of wasted dairy. Knowing when to melt, crumble, or shave cheese is like knowing when to stir, bake, or fry—it defines the final dish.
Fortunately, this concept is simple:
- Are you cooking with the cheese under sustained heat (think casseroles, soups and sauces) and need something to bind it all together? Go with high moisture content like ricotta or mascarpone.
- Are you cooking under high heat and want the perfect amount of stretch? Go with a low moisture-high meltability hybrid like mild cheddar or low-moisture mozzarella.
- Are you basically done cooking but want to add some zing-pow-whap? Go with a hard, sharp cheese like gorgonzola.
Region
Cultural context in food is not just a pretentious flex—it matters. Regional cheeses are designed to complement the flavors and techniques of their cuisines:
Italian dishes rely on salty, nutty cheeses like Parmigiano-Reggiano or Pecorino because they’re balanced for pasta and olive oil-based dishes.
Mexican cheeses like cotija and queso fresco cut through spicy or acidic flavors, enhancing tacos or elotes.
French cheeses often star in sauces or pastries, designed for buttery, creamy applications.
Using a cheese out of context can be fine (who’s stopping you?), but pairing the right cheese with its natural culinary environment guarantees harmony in your dish.
Specialty Roles
This is about cheese as a specific tool. Some cheeses just work better for certain applications:
- Stuffing cheeses are pliable and creamy, ideal for fillings.
- Crumbly cheeses scatter well over dishes for quick flavor pops.
- Shreddable cheeses melt evenly, creating cohesive, gooey layers.
So Why Do These Categories Matter
These categories aren’t just to help you show off your cheese trivia to friends—they’re a cheat sheet for how to use cheese intelligently. These categories save you from wasting ingredients, creating culinary disasters, or ending up with boring, one-note dishes.
This might make you a bit of a cheese nerd, sure, but at least you can maximize your dairy game. Anyway, go forth and eat cheese for Christmas.
Matthew Christensen
Weekly Newsletter Contributor since 2023
Email the author! matthew@dvo.com