Think you know pesto? Think again. Sure, the classic Pesto alla Genovese—the blend of basil, pine nuts, Parmigiano-Reggiano, garlic, and olive oil—is the gold standard, but pesto isn’t a recipe. It’s a concept. A formula that’s been adapted, twisted, and reimagined across regions, cultures, and culinary traditions.

This article dives into the art and science of pesto: where it comes from, why a mortar and pestle still reigns supreme, and how you can break the rules to create your own pesto masterpiece.

A Brief History of Pesto

The word pesto comes from the Italian verb pestare, meaning “to pound” or “to crush,” referring to the traditional method of making it with a mortar and pestle. The concept of pesto—an herb, a nut, a cheese, and an oil pounded together—has existed in various forms across Italy for centuries.

The most famous pesto is Pesto alla Genovese, which hails from Genoa, in the Liguria region of Italy. This version, made with basil, pine nuts, Parmigiano-Reggiano, garlic, and olive oil, became the gold standard. However, other regions have developed their own interpretations:

• Pesto alla Trapanese (Sicily) – A tomato-based pesto with almonds, basil, garlic, and Pecorino Romano.
• Pesto Modenese (Modena, Emilia-Romagna) – A winter-friendly pesto made with lard, rosemary, garlic, and Parmigiano-Reggiano.
• Pistou (France, Provence region) – A basil-based pesto that omits nuts and typically lacks cheese.

These variations prove that pesto is more a technique than a rigid recipe.

The Universal Pesto Formula

The first cooking class I ever took involved a chef teaching us to make pesto with sage, pistachio, parmigiano-reggiano, and olive oil. She taught me the secret to pesto’s versatility:

An Herb + A Nut + A Cheese + An Oil

This formula works because it balances key flavor elements:

• The herb provides freshness, bitterness, or spice.
• The nut adds richness and body.
• The cheese brings salt and umami.
• The oil binds everything together into a smooth, spreadable texture.

While olive oil is traditional, different oils (nut oils, infused oils, even butter-based emulsions) can create entirely new dimensions of flavor.

Why Use a Mortar and Pestle?

Blenders and food processors are convenient, but a mortar and pestle:

• Preserves texture – A more varied, rustic texture beats a uniform purée. I absolutely adore the crunch of a large piece of pine nut when I’m eating a pesto-covered pasta.
• Releases oils gradually – Crushing ingredients releases flavors differently than cutting them with blades.
• Minimizes oxidation – Blenders introduce heat and air, dulling the bright flavors of fresh herbs.

If time allows, a mortar and pestle will yield a deeper, more aromatic pesto.

Unique Pesto Variations

Here’s a collection of pesto ideas that push beyond tradition:

Herb + Nut + Cheese + Oil

1. Cilantro + Cashew + Cotija + Lime Oil – Bright, slightly citrusy, perfect for tacos.
2. Arugula + Walnut + Pecorino Romano + Garlic + Olive Oil – Peppery and sharp, great for steak.
3. Mint + Pistachio + Ricotta Salata + Lemon + Olive Oil – Refreshing, ideal for lamb.
4. Roasted Red Pepper + Almond + Manchego + Smoked Paprika + Olive Oil – Sweet, smoky, fantastic on grilled bread.
5. Carrot Tops + Hazelnut + Parmesan + Browned Butter – Slightly sweet, nutty, a great use for carrot greens.
6. Fennel Fronds + Pine Nut + Grana Padano + Lemon Zest + Grapeseed Oil – Light anise notes, excellent on fish.
7. Thai Basil + Peanut + Palm Sugar + Toasted Sesame Oil – Southeast Asian-inspired, great for noodles or grilled shrimp.

There, you just became your entire county’s expert on all things pesto. Sure, my ideas are cool, but what about your ideas for a cool pesto? Whether you stick with tradition or embrace heresy, you now have the knowledge—and no excuses.